Evolution of the Fiero Race Bucket

Go back two years. I had come to a dead end with my plug and play design.  I was never going to be able to fit the Hella 90mm Bi-Xenon alongside a 60mm projector.  I had to start from scratch.

Fast forward a year, the “Super Low is born.  Main design requirements were three fold.

  1. Fit the larger projector next to my purist trooper 60mm fixture.
  2. A lower opening profile than that of “the Fiero King”
  3. Door must raise evenly without twisting of the lid and damage to custom paint.

Now go back 30+ years. My first car was a red 1971 Mercury Capri.  SOHC 2 liter 4sp live rear axle.  German Ford drive line that birthed the Pinto.  My thing was night driving.  I had some really good mountain roads near where I grew up and I spent a great deal of time pushing the limits of adhesion and this poor car’s limited suspension.  I did have dual sway bars and decent tires.

I came to understand slip angle and four wheel drift.  What I could not see was the apex.  I mounted some 55watt JC Whitney driving lights to the sloped sheet metal under the bumper and they looked supercool.  Problem was they lit up the road straight ahead and I was still flying blind in the corners.  I took my shiny new lights and twisted them outwards.  It looked like hell but worked great. On more than one occasion, a helpful friend got down under my bumper and “re-aimed” them for me before I could stop them.  I had discovered the “cornering light”.

Now go back to last year’s ChumpCar season.  I get introduced to “Pontihack”.  A team that has 5 seasons under their belt.  They are not Fiero guys.  They chose it because it because of its mid-engine advantage.  They have a roll cage our team needs and their off road floods blow.  They were gearing up for “the 36” in July.  A trade was in the works!

90mm Bi-Halogen or BiXenon 60mm Hella Projector Modules

ProjectorRetrofit 90BH60slr

Enter the “SLR” (Super Low Race) a 90mm Bi-Halogen and an inboard horizontally amiable 60mm projector.  We installed and ran the set-up at Spokane last July.  Game changer.  Tech got a good look my system, but other teams did not.  In fact, this is the first time I have published these close-ups.  We still had to race at PIR in October.  Come October, I installed similar buckets in “Pontiaxed’ and “Miss Fieroline”.  Fieroline went the next step and has 90mm Bi-Xenon outboard.  I was terrified we would bang up the front of the car and lose $1000 worth of lights.  Sunday morning, before our 6 hour day race, I pulled all the projectors out.

This year, there are other subtle things I am holding close.  I’ll tell you all about it next year.

ProjectorRetrofit Chumpcar loaner program

I have been blessed to be able to spend some quality time in my shop.
I came across these:

ProjectoRetrofit 6060pp race set-up

60mm Hella projector used by Pontiaxed racing set-up

This the first set of buckets I put in the “Pontiaxed” Chumpcar.
I removed them last fall when I installed my newest race configuration.
I cannot bring myself to sell these and prefer that they live on in other Chumpcars.

Then I got his great idea…………..
These are now a loaner set for Chumps!
I’ll ship and loan these to you, you ship them to the next team after your event.
There will be a contract and deposit.
Terms of which…………I have not thought that far ahead yet.

My priorities will be events that include full nights of racing.
The “37” has been moved from Kansas to November 15-November 16
Eagles canyon Raceway in Texas
“”The 37″ (The Title Says It All)”

There are three 24hr events
“The Interstate 5 Middle-of-Nowhere Grand Prix”

“The VIR 24-hour Classic”

December 30-January 1 HOMESTEAD-MIAMI SPEEDWAY: 24 Hour
“The Optima Batteries New Year’s Eve Celebration”

There are many events that conclude with several hours of night racing.
This offer is for you teams as well.
Interested? contact me questions@projectorretrofit.com
Also I run into serious Fiero people who are not on this forum.
If you know ANYONE who plans to run a Fiero in these events,
would you please call them and let them know about my offer.

Go Chump Go!
Thanks! Rick

Hella Projectors for your Motorcycle

For most of the last year I have been messing with various designs to go on motorcycles. Mark in Washington state contacted me about his KLR. His bike has simple dual beam reflector and really needs an upgrade. This is my second working prototype for the Gen I Kawasaki KLR dual Hella 60mm projector bucket.

KLR 6060SbS 04

Hella 60mm projectors mounted side by side for the Gen I Kawasaki KLR

It is just about ready for the public and is a preview of my coming 6060 Universal motorcycle mount. I will make this available in a kit complete with modules, hardware, and wiring.

Better Headlights for your Pontiac Fiero on a budget.

Stock Fiero headlight

Stock Fiero headlight compared to early 9090 prototype

Got an e-mail from Pennocks member, it goes like this:

“I was looking at your website, and saw some buckets for $50. Are those something that i could mount my own headlights in? What is the most cost effective option? Is there a major difference between HID and the higher output 55watt halogen bulbs? Basically I hate my stock headlights, they’re like unfocused flashlights at night. I really want to modernize them and don’t know where to start. Any suggestions?”

For 50 bucks you are looking at what I call a “Chump Plate”.  It’s a pair of flat pieces of plastic with all the holes cut and drilled in the exact location for the desired Hella projector modules.  Included is all adjuster hardware. This is for Chumpcar World series race-cars to adapt to an existing NON-moving fixed bucket. I have yet to post a proper picture and the current one is actually a “Chump Bucket”.

Don’t try to save a buck here.  Trying to adapt this plate to a stock Fiero bucket will be difficult and may not actually work. If you want Hella projectors, Buy my $200 ready to go buckets

Here are some affordable options for you:

Swap out you dismal H6054 (Hb2) sealed beam with a:

Hella 200mm Vision Plus Rectangular DOT Headlamp .

Not the cheapest but certainly the simplest, DOT legal way.

If you want to a build lower profile lights yourself check:

Tony Kania’s 4″ x 6″ Low Profile HID Headlight Project

I would not worry so much about HID, but I would use:

Hella 165mm Free Form Hi-Lo H4 Conversion Headlamp Kit

There are a couple of reasons why your stock Fiero headlights are just so bad.
Lobbying by US bulb manufacturers kept the sealed beam and delayed the adoption of composite reflector assemblies ten years after the Europeans had them. The Fiero headlight and Fiero driver’s eyes are lower to the ground than pretty much everything out there. The shallow angles in which the light hits road and reflected back is a disadvantage.

Pontiaxed at PIR April 13-14

Chumpcar World Series     PIR  Double-7  “April Showers Brings… Chumps!”

Pontiaxed PIR ChumpCar

Parked in the Pits in Portland

The Pontiaxed team will be racing their Fiero on Saturday and Sunday.  I have another team to meet there and will bring the demo van.  Come out and cheer on our guys, have a cup of coffee and hang out.  If you have never been to a ChumpCar race, you are missing out!  Grassroots racing fun!

6060 Full Kit Installation Instructions

  1. Disconnect your battery, ground first, then positive
  2. Connect the short battery feeder to the fuse block to help you determine where to mount the fuse block on the passenger side strut tower in the engine bay.
  3. Mount the fuse block with the provided self tapping sheet-metal screws.
  4. Remove your battery
  5. Unplug your stock headlamps.
  6. Remove your stock buckets.  (Battery should be removed or disconnected prior to doing this.)  There are three bolts per side and they are identical.  You will reuse the two upper hinge bolts.  The lower push pivotbolt is now a spare.  Unbolt the push pivot bolt first, then the hinge.
  7. Lift your car on the passenger side.  Do it on level ground, block your wheels, use jack stands.
  8. Locate the feeder end of the harness.  It is the single piece of loom that will connect two red wires to the fuse block.
  9. Route, but do not fasten yet, the feeder end down through the passenger side headlight bay alongside the coolant tank, underneath the car alongside the fuel tank, up the firewall in the engine bay, behind and around the back side of the battery to the strut tower where you mounted the fuse block.
  10. Connect the long feeder end, that you just routed from the front of the car, to the other side of the fuse block.
  11. Starting at the fuse block, zip tie the harness from the rear of the car to the front where it starts to come up into the headlamp bay.  Make sure the the harness is secure and does not have any wear points.
  12. Remove relays from relay bases.
  13. Mount bases to outside wall of headlamp bay.  Make sure relays and harness will not obstruct the motion of the bucket.
  14. Reinstall relays
  15. Plug H4 connector into old headlamp plug
  16. Route short new module connectors up next to passenger side headlamp motor.
  17. Route long new module connectors down along side feeder to sway bar.
  18. Zip tie both in place.
  19. Route and zip tie long driver side connector across front brake line parallel to sway bar and up into headlamp bracket.
  20. Install new buckets
  21. Zip tie harness ends to bucket “saddle”, though bucket, and turn back underneath (see picture below – click to enlarge).

    201217-6060-Full-Kit-Installation-Instructions-01 201217-6060-Full-Kit-Installation-Instructions-02

    Plug in modules

  22. Make sure that connectors and harness allow for the movement of the bucket.  The modules are adjusted all the way back.  When you aim your lights, you will gain back clearance for the connectors. As you draw the modules forward make sure that the lens clears the forward bodywork.
  23. Connect grounds at both buckets to mounting bolts of headlamp assembly frame
  24. Reinstall Battery
  25. Connect short battery feeder to positive battery post, connect ground
  26. Turn on headlights.  Confirm proper function.
  27. Aim headlights according to the regulations of your state.
  28. Once your aim is dialed in, tighten backside lock-nuts.  Whenever tuning adjusters, remember the adjusters are stainless steel and are threaded in a tapped aluminum hole in the module. If you strip these, you will have to put a wrench on the lock-nut to adjust aim.

How To Aim Headlamps and Auxiliary Lamps

For many people, aiming headlights can be an intimidating concept.  They are afraid they will do something wrong, illegal, or most importantly unsafe.  The reality is that if you are patient, thorough, and follow these Aiming directions, you will be satisfied and confident with the result.  The author, Daniel Stern, is a great authority on automotive illumination in North America.  Check out DanielSternLighting.com for a wealth of information.